Make the frame

The sail is ready. Then we will make the frame. We will show you how to saw the spars and how to put all the connectors in place. Finally we show you how to get the spars into and onto the kite the easy way.

Step 1: Sawing the spars to the right length

In this table you will find all you need to make the spars at the right lenght.

Part Description Number Length
leading edges Carbon hollow 6 mm - length 1,5 m or 1,6m 2 1355 mm
spine Carbon hollow 6 mm - length 1,5 m or 1,6 m 1 770 mm
upper spreader Carbon hollow 6 mm - length 1,5 m or 1,6 m 1 495 mm
Lower spreader Sky shark 5PT 2 720 mm
Inner stand-offs Carbon full 3 mm - length 1,5 m or 1,6 m 2 256 mm
Outer stand-offs Carbon full 3 mm - length 1,5 m or 1,6 m 2 251 mm

Sawing the spars is done with a metal saw.

Watch Out: To prevent splintering it is best to turn the spar around the length axis while sawing.

Watch Out: Sky shark 5PT-spars are cone-shaped. Only saw on the SMALL side of the spar.

Step 2: Putting the spine together

1. Put the central-T and an end cap of 6 mm on the spine. A piece of a small garden hose is ideal to keep the central-T in its place and absorb shocks when the kite crashes on the nose.

2. Slide the spine in the spine tunnel with the end that has no end cap on it.

3. Now pull the spine down as far as needed to allow it to slide in the nose bag.

4. The central-T is pushed through the opening that's provided.

5. Put a FSD-end cap or a Split nock on the bottom end of the spine and hook the leech line in the fitting.

6. Fold the Velcro over to tension the spine

Step 3: Putting the leading edges together

1. Slide the long spar from the tip into the leading edge, just up to the first opening.

2. Slide the lower APA- connector on the spar and slide the spar further in the leading edge, sliding down the APA-connector as the spar goes deeper.

3. Place a stand-off junction at the yoyo-stopper cut-out on the spar and continue sliding it all up.

4. Slide the spar up until you reach the bottom part of the upper spreader cut-out.

5. Place the second APA-connector and an end cap of 6 mm before you slide the spar into the top part of the leading edge.

6. Slide the spar all the way up into the nose.

Step 4: Make and place the stand-offs

1. On one side of all 4 the stand-offs, glue an end cap of 3 mm tight with superglue.

2. At the other side of each stand-off, glue the sail connector or the Jaco-connector.

3. If you use Jaco-connectors, remove the rubber stop rings from the connectors.

4. Place the short stand-offs in the holes that are closest to the spine.

5. Place the long stand-offs in the other holes (furthest away from the spine).

6. If you use Jaco-connectors, put the rubber stop rings back and press these against the sail.

Step 5: Glueing the ferrule in the 5PT-spar

1. Take the paper tape and cut a piece of it exactly as wide as the central-T.

2. Paste the piece of paper tape at 39 mm from the end of the ferrule. Check to see if both ends past the tape are the same length.

3. Take one of the Sky shark 5PT-spars and slide the ferrule about 15mm inside the 5PT-spar.

4. Put superglue on the ferrule and push it inside the spar right up to the paper tape. Hold the ferrule steady for 10 seconds to have it perfectly glued.

5. Remove the paper tape.

Step 6: Tensioning the tips and leech line

Tensioning the sail

1. Cut a piece of bridle line of about 20 cm long.

2. Make a small loop in the bridle line.

3. Place the loop into the FSD-end cap or the split nock and the other end through the hole in the leading edge. Now pull that line to tension the sail until it takes the shape of the leading edge (without wrinkles).

4. Put the kite together (insert all the spreaders and put the stand-offs into place).

The leech line

A. FSD-end cap

1. Pull the leech line to tension the sail nicely (the tension should make the sail look flat without wrinkles)

2. Twist the leech line a couple of times around the FSD-end cap and pull the line in the insertion every round.

3. Place an endcap of 10mm on the de FSD-end cap to hide and seal the lines.


B. split nock

2. Make a knot at the begin of the split nock and put the rest of the line into the leading edge.

3. Pull the leech line tight and knot it at the knot in the bridle line we used to tension the sail.

Step 7: Glueing the C-clips

C-clips at the upper spreader

1. Put the kite together

2. Slide the upper APA-connectors up or down until the upper spreader sits in the centre of the fortification.

3. Glue the C-clips with superglue under the APA-connectors and apply pressure on them for 10 seconds.

C-clips at the lower spreaders

1. Place the centre of the lower APA-connectors at 925 mm from the centre of the nose.

2. Glue the C-clips with superglue under the APA-connectors and apply pressure on them for 10 seconds.

The frame is ready! You can now build the kite's bridle.